Tonka bean is a prized ingredient in the perfume world for its sweet odor with vanilla-like characteristics. But unlike the complex vanilla, tonka features a more neutral tone reminiscent of cinnamon spice, toasted almonds, and cloves.
Its perfume history began when the French people discovered the vanilla-like and sensual aroma of the tonka beans harvested from the Coumarou fruit. In modern perfumes, tonka beans have become an integral part of perfumery and are widely used to substitute for musk.
- What is Tonka Bean?
- What Does Tonka Bean Smell Like?
- What Scent Family is Tonka Bean?
- What are the Benefits of Tonka Beans?
- Is Tonka Bean a Feminine or Masculine Scent?
- Best Perfumes with Tonka Bean Notes
- The Bottom Line
What is Tonka Bean?
Tonka bean comes from the tonka bean tree known as Coumarou. It’s an Amazonian tree native in the lush rainforests around Central and South America.
The tonka tree is often valued for its hardwood timber, but the beans make an intoxicating and delicious ingredient in perfumery. Once the fruits drop from the age-old tree, which can grow up to 1,000 years, the beans get harvested.
After drying, they’ll develop a crystalline feature over the skin. This frost-like material results in coumarin, the tonka absolute diluted and used in fragrances. The coumarin content of tonka gives it its bitter taste and distinctive aroma.
The tropical tree, along with black currant, sweet clover, and sour cherry, is one of the natural sources of coumarin. Coumarin isolate from the beans was initially discovered in 1820 but was believed initially to be benzoic acid.
Later on, a French pharmacist found the error and renamed the compound.
In 1868, an English chemist succeeded in developing artificial coumarin, one of the first synthetic additives. The first synthetic material was very inexpensive and readily available, used initially in the culinary world.
Later on, the French became obsessed with bean flavor, which they used to infuse coconut milk to make custards and ice cream. They call this obsession “fièvre tonka,” which translates to tonka fever.
Pipe tobacco manufacturers also add coumarin as one of the synthetic ingredients for flavoring, along with tobacco absolute.
What Does Tonka Bean Smell Like?
The shriveled, edible black bean harvested from the tonka bean tree has an odor profile ranging from freshly cut grass to sweet vanilla, and the nutty aroma of almond. It gives a warm and creamy element in fragrance creation, often used as base notes for its subtle tobacco scents.
The tonka bean smell also comes with accents of spices like cinnamon and nutmeg and subtle nuances of amarena cherries.
What Scent Family is Tonka Bean?
Tonka bean primarily belongs to the oriental fragrances family. Oriental fragrances feature a heavy and warm yet diffusive richness that lingers sensually and is heavy on base notes.
Tonka bean works well with a range of different fragrances, like oud oil for an exotic touch. Tonka notes can also tamp down the often overbearing and offensive scents of smoky and musky aromas.
What are the Benefits of Tonka Beans?
Although tonka bean is widely used for its potent fragrance profile, it has other benefits. These include:
In some cultures, the tonka bean is believed to have mystical properties, and is often called the “love-wishing bean.”
Some pagan cultures also use crushed beans for herbal teas to help ward off negativity. However, consuming tonka beans in large quantities, like other everyday spices such as nutmeg, is potentially toxic.
The beans are also widely used in treating tuberculosis, spasms, nausea, cough, and cramps. Its potent aroma can also help reduce anxiety and promote overall relaxation.
Is Tonka Bean a Feminine or Masculine Scent?
However, tonka bean also has well-loved oriental qualities that make it appealing for women’s fragrances. It’s often added as a heart or base note in women’s perfumes to create extra warmth and depth.
Best Perfumes with Tonka Bean Notes
Tonka beans have been famous accords in perfumery, praised for their soft yet warm and spicy qualities.
Do the tonka heart notes appeal to you? Check out three of the best tonka bean perfumes below.
1. Dior Hypnotic Poison
This aptly named oriental eau de parfum features a timeless allure in hypnotic red perfume packaging with a fragrance composed of tonka bean, sambac jasmine, and orange blossom for a sweet and powerful scent.
2. Tom Ford Oud Wood
This masculine fragrance is for lovers of the exotic oud scent. It gives an intense yet soft and warm smell with tonka bean as the base, and mixes of vetiver and sandalwood.
3. Guerlain L’Home Ideal L’Intense
The tonka bean sits as the heart note of this elegant and powerful perfume. With hot pepper top notes and a base of vanilla notes, it has a captivating scent with hints of spice and wood.
The Bottom Line
Complex and sweet without any hint of offensiveness, the incredible facets of the tonka bean fragrance adds balance and depth. It’s why the fragrant aroma became not only a vital part of the modern perfume industry, but also as special base notes (and middle notes) to many iconic scents.
Like anything rich and powerful, a little goes a long way when using tonka bean, whether blending perfumes or for other purposes.